My friend, Jo, and I booked the Black Sea cruise with Princess Cruise Lines. We worked feverishly on booking the excursions. Our options for the cruise port in Khios, Greece, only returned 3 choices, we were a bit worried. We were not familiar with Khios and knew nothing of the area, so it was hard making a choice. Fortunately, we made a good one. Jo and I chose the Nea Moni Monastery & Avgonima ($64.95) tour offered by Princess Cruise Lines that was a 3 1/2 hour trip around the most picturesque scenery imaginable. What a treat!
We boarded our motor coach for a 35 minute drive from the port to the semi-fortified Medieval hillside village of Avgonima. We snaked our way up windy hills with roads that were surprisingly in good condition as we admired the most interesting terrain. The terrain was partially dead from a devastating fire, but held hundreds of years of history. The white dusted mountaintops were dotted with thick pine trees, olive trees, and jagged rocks.
As we arrived in Avgonima, population one single resident, we exited the bus and climbed the rocky platforms to view the deserted remains of the hillside village, with each house offering one tiny window and small door. The views of the canyons and roads below seemed miles apart. They were a visual delight amidst a huge pine forest. The Aegean Sea could be seen from the Western side. A local artist sold paintings to tourists. A small coffee shop was open where we purchased drinks and sweets. This place was so old!
The bus stopped for another photo-op at a second village, Anavatos, built entirely of local stone. At this stop, our tour guide encouraged us to eat from the the pomegranate and fig trees as it is acceptable here. Back on the bus, we continued to twist and turn around the mountains another 15 minutes to arrive at the Nea Moni Monastery. Nea Moni is a UNESCO World Heritage Site from the 11th century.
The most interesting monastery could be recognized by its red and gold mosaics, examples of Byzantine Renaissance Art. The church was adorned with scenes from the Bible as well as portraits of saints, though the earthquake of 1881 damned many. A startling fact was that after siding against the Ottomans, forces were sent into Khios to make an example of them, and nearly all of the population was slaughtered. Thinking they were safe in the monastery, the monks did not prepare for invasion and the Ottomans entered and massacred the majority of its dwellers. A glass front bookcase stands in the church full of skulls of many of the fallen, a sad reminder and frightful heirloom.
Khios is pronounced with a silent “k” and is located only 5 miles off the coast of Turkey. It is a place known for excellence in metalworking, mastic gum, and figs, and is claimed to be the birthplace of the famous poet, Homer. The process of tending to the mastic trees (Lentisk trees) was described on our tour as well as how expensive of an export it is. Mastic is one of the prime ingredients in chewing gum, but also popular in stomach digestion aids as well as face tightening and whitening skin creams. We sampled mastic at an herb store in Athens. I found it to be like chewing wax; flavorless and a bit hard to chew.
Our tour guide, Stevie, was incredibly knowledgeable about the area and offered fun facts as well as a valuable history lesson. Stevie did not just fill space talking about worthless information and her voice was clear and concise, which was greatly appreciated by her audience. Princess Cruise Lines did a good job organizing this tour as it provided was much more unique than other tours on this itinerary. Slightly outside of the cruise port (you must be tendered over to the shore in smaller boats), is 1/2 mile strip of shopping and dining establishments available. The water was extremely rough on the tender and many passengers looked ill.
Note: Though the Khios excursion says there are uneven steps to the monastery, the hikes up the hills at both of the villages was far more strenuous than the hill up to the monastery. I recommend wearing tennis shoes. Our tour guide allowed us to take pictures inside without flash, even though it was no photography signs were posted.
My Khios, Greece Photo Gallery:
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