A few years ago, my friend Sara and I were invited by the Kansas US Highway 36 Association to embark on a 13-day road trip across the Sunflower State. Our route? The iconic Highway 36 stretches from the Missouri border all the way west to Colorado. Starting point? Doniphan County, Kansas.
With a list of contacts, a few gift certificates, and a whole lot of curiosity, we set off without a rigid schedule—just the hope of discovering the heart and soul of rural Kansas.
First Stop: Doniphan County, Kansas
Nestled in the far northeast corner of the state, Doniphan County, Kansas, was our official starting point. This county may be small in size, but it’s big on charm, scenic views, and fascinating history. Home to towns like Elwood, Highland, Troy, Wathena, Sparks, and White Cloud, Doniphan County set the bar high for the rest of our road trip.
Whether you’re a history buff, a flea market treasure hunter, or someone who loves quirky roadside attractions, this region is for you.
Top Things to Do in Doniphan County
Doniphan County was full of surprises. Here are some of the highlights we enjoyed.
Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail
Part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail runs right through Doniphan County. This is where the famed explorers once traveled as they mapped out new territory, and today you can follow in their footsteps while soaking in the same riverside views that inspired them.
Here’s another rural Kansas road trip post that might intrigue you.
Wilbur Chapman “Piggy Bank” Monument
If you love quirky photo ops, don’t miss the Piggy Bank Monument that honors Wilbur Chapman, a Troy resident who helped popularize the coin-saving tradition we all grew up with. It’s a fun, offbeat stop that adds a dash of whimsy to your road trip.
Tall Oak by Peter Toth
Standing tall in front of the Doniphan County Courthouse in Troy is a 27-foot hand-carved Native American statue by artist Peter Toth. Known as “Tall Oak,” this sculpture is part of Toth’s “Trail of the Whispering Giants” series found across the U.S. It’s impressive in both size and detail, and definitely worth a look.
Also on the courthouse grounds:
- A mini Statue of Liberty
- A Battlefield Cross Monument honoring local veterans
Sparks and White Cloud Flea Markets
If you time your visit right, you can catch two of the biggest flea markets in the Midwest. Sparks and White Cloud come alive with vendors, antiques, crafts, and food during their biannual events. Even if you’re browsing, the atmosphere is electric.
White Cloud
History buffs or those curious about Native American culture should visit Ma-Hush-Kah-Historical-Society, a look into the Kansas tribe and life. White Cloud itself is a cute little town with a couple of shops and a lovely mural. It just feels like it’s on the verge of exploding in a good way, so keep your eye on this one.
Nelson Rogers House
This historic home in Troy holds a special distinction: Abraham Lincoln once visited here. The house offers a peek into Kansas’s early days and its connection to national history.
Scenic Routes and Historic Trails
- The Glacier Hills Scenic Byway
- The California National Historic Trail
- The historic Pony Express Route
With rolling hills, winding back roads, and plenty of Instagram-worthy stops, driving through this area feels like stepping into a travel magazine.
Unexpected Fun at Casino White Cloud
We weren’t planning to visit a casino, but when we rolled through White Cloud, we couldn’t resist trying our luck at Casino White Cloud in Doniphan County, Kansas. We played a few rounds of bingo (so fun!), enjoyed dinner, and explored the rest of the gaming floor. The casino features:
- Nearly 400 slot machines
- Virtual table games
- A full-service restaurant with surprisingly tasty food
Sometimes the unplanned stops turn out to be the most memorable!
Don’t Miss: Four State Lookout
Before leaving Doniphan County, we stopped at Four State Lookout in White Cloud. From this elevated point, you can see Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska, and Iowa all at once. It’s a breathtaking view and the perfect way to end your visit here. Bring your camera—sunsets are magical from this spot.
Bonus Throwback: Big Kansas Road Trip
Some of the sites we visited were also featured in the Big Kansas Road Trip in 2021, which shined a well-deserved spotlight on this beautiful area. But even that event only scratched the surface—there’s always more to uncover in Doniphan County, Kansas.
Where to Stay and Eat
We spent the night at the Windemere House B&B in Troy, and it was everything you’d want after a day on the road. Cozy, quiet, and run by warm, welcoming hosts, it provided the perfect reset before heading deeper into Kansas. If you like charming accommodations with local character and super sweet hosts, this one’s for you.
For food, you can never go wrong with El Canelo Mexican Restaurant in Elwood (the chicken fajitas are excellent!) and Kirkwood & Co. in Highland. The bacon jam burger was delicious, and the restaurant is stylish and has a nice vibe.
Plan Your Visit
If you’re traveling across Kansas or looking for a unique weekend getaway, Doniphan County should be on your radar. It’s a hidden gem filled with scenic beauty, historical significance, friendly locals, and offbeat adventures.
From quirky statues to sweeping river views, this northeast Kansas county was the perfect way to kick off our US Highway 36 road trip—and we left eager to see what the rest of the journey had in store.
Stay tuned for our next stop as we continue west along one of the lesser-known and most underrated road trip routes in America.
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