Exploring Man Creek at Chiriqui Grande, Panama
My husband, two friends, and I set off for a day trip adventure in Chiriqui Grande, a town on the Caribbean Sea in Panama. We drove the two hours from our home in Boquete to visit a remote Indigenous village, Man Creek, only accessible by boat.
There, we hired a local guide to take us via boat through the Caribbean Sea to Man Creek to explore how the Ngöbe–Buglé indigenous Indian tribe live. The boat ride took 30 minutes. (coordinates are Lat 8.93333 and Long -82.05) Little did I know that our day would be forever etched in my heart from the amazing experiences I had.
On Our Way to Man Creek, Chiriqui Grande, Panama
The four of us started our drive dodging potholes along the Panamanian roads and making our way through the dangerous curves up and down mountainsides. We came to the top of a mountain, referred to as Devil’s Ear, where the wind whips so fast it could knock you down. This is slightly past the Continental Divide where the weather turns very gloomy, dark, and winds can range 40-65 mph easily.
Descending Devil’s Ear, we came to a hydroelectric water plant. Once we had crossed the bridge, admiring the beautiful river below and the deepest mountains in the back and foregrounds, we visibly noticed the difference in the weather. As we entered the Caribbean side of Panama, the sun poked its head out and things were brighter. The clouds lifted from the mountains and palm trees snuck into sight. Colorful plants lined the road and the temperature heated up 10-15 degrees. We passed beautiful waterfalls.
Luck was in our favor when we saw a sloth climbing along a utility line, backward and upside down. We pulled over, mesmerized by this cool creature and his sluggish, monotonous behavior. Next came the water buffalos, smaller than the ones in the US, grazing through the fields with white birds by their sides. There were literally hundreds of Panamanian Brahman cows lounging and enjoying the sunshine.
Arrival in Chiriqui Grande
We arrived in the town of Chiriqui Grande and secured a parking place. The town had several stores, mostly ones that provide the indigenous with their living supplies. There was a restaurant, hotel, an Indian bar, and some food/supply stores as well as variety stores which are typical in Panama. The roads were muddy and in poor shape.
Dogs wandered the streets, but none appeared to be hungry. The indigenous Indian families gathered their goods and waited for boat transportation back to their homes. The children were dirty, but regardless, they were beautiful and sweet.
My Spanish speaking friend, Delia, talked with a local man, Chirro Valencia, about taking us up to Man Creek to see where the indigenous reside. They negotiated a fee and the man even offered to prepare a local fish lunch for us when we got back. His daughter, Edy, a college student in David, and her younger brother took us through the ocean and across a sandbar to the beginning of Man Creek.
Navigating our Way Across the Sea to Man Creek
We trolled along the waterway, gazing at the families, animals, and beauty we encountered along the way. For us, it was most interesting seeing how different the indigenous live in this area of Panama as opposed to Boquete. The houses were mostly concrete and open with many family members living in the same household. There is no electricity. Several of the homes had big fat pigs, boars, or cows and an occasional dog.
Hand-carved boats made from logs held children as young as 4 or 5, and they rowed themselves along the creek. The landscape was dotted with tropical trees, colorful birds, and indigenous ladies standing in the creek washing their clothing. I watched in astonishment witnessing this simple and most amazing way to live. These people have nothing, comparatively speaking, yet they seem so happy and content. It was magical.
The best part of our day came when we found several children along the waterfront, probably curious about the motorboat. My husband and I often bring stuffed animals, Barbie dolls, and other toys from the US to pass out to the indigenous children, most of them who have no toys at all. Edy pulled our boat over on the bank and all of the kids ran lickity split down to see us.
The Sweet Children of Man Creek
An older girl came running from the house carrying a chubby naked baby boy, bouncing him all over the place to get in on the action. The children were smiling and happy to receive some trinkets and snacks. It pleased us to no end that the families were so excited to see us and accepted our gifts.
We drove away, myself in tears, and I was once again reminded of the reason I love being a part-time expat in Panama, a country that is so appreciative. Of course, there were many more details about our visit, but they were so special that I wanted to keep them stored in my heart.
A Day Filled With Love
We explored a bit more then turned around and headed for shore. Though the ride was bumpy, we felt safe with Edy’s skill level and driving. Back at Edy’s house, her family had prepared a lovely table on the porch for our dinner. The table was complete with a tablecloth and ice cold beer.
The food arrived consisting of fresh fried red snapper, rice, and veggies. My friend Delia was salivating over the delicious looking plate. When she took her first bite, her eyes literally rolled in her head at how wonderful it was. I had opted for a vegetarian meal.
My plate contained rice with lentils and guandas, patacones (fried green plantains), and hojaldras (fried Panamanian bread). They were delicious! We encouraged Edy to join us and soon the whole family was sharing their home and stories with us. We will be forever friends.
One Single Day Etched in my Mind
The day I spent in Man Creek, Panama was filled with many emotions & sites that I will cherish forever. I am grateful to have been received by these indigenous people with wonder and acceptance.
There are many places just like this all over Panama. I hope to explore them all and fill my soul with more special experiences like this one.
Man Creek Photo Gallery
These are some of the adorable children we gave toys and candy to. I wanted to bring these two cuties home with me.
The simple sign for the Continental Divide on the drive to Chiriqui Grande, Panama.
My husband Eddie and I visiting Chiriqui Grande, Panama.
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Check out our other Panama posts:
How to Spend 3 Weeks in Boquete
Boquete, Panama has been my home for 4 years now. I have no idea how much of my beautiful new country I will have the opportunity to see so I thank you for sharing these experiences through your eyes.
Anytime Nancy. If you have anything special in mind, I’d love for you to take me to visit on my next trip down. 😉 I love it all.
Such lovely pictures! I just went to Central America for the first time a few weeks ago and visited Costa Rica. Now I want to go back and see some of the other countries there, like Panama!
And likewise, I want to explore Costa Rica but a little hesitant about crossing the border (very close to us) after hearing some of the horror stories. Glad you had a nice visit and I hope you get to explore more of it.
It sounds like you had an amazing time. I’ve heard so much about Panama lately and it seems like such an inspiring and beautiful place to visit.
Yes, I can confirm that. 😉 Thanks for visiting my site.
awesome photos. I would have been watching the sloth do the turns and flips around too. That must have been real cool to see.
It was amazing. I was telling our friends that we came with how I wanted to see a sloth on my three week trip to Panama. It was literally an hour afterwards that we spotted him. 😉 Checked off my list.
Wow, it sounds like an incredible trip! That was very sweet to bring gifts for the children, they looked so happy. It looks like it was a beautiful trip to get there as well, the scenery and wildlife are stunning- especially the sloths! 🙂
Thank you. It was a great day. I just love seeing all these beautiful children and have many collectibles that are just sitting around doing nothing that I thought I could put to good use by sharing them. The sloth was definitely a bonus!
The Continental Divide merits just a tiny one-word sign?! How is it not a huge tourist attraction and a hundred people selling souvenirs?! Looks like a cool day, though, to a place that few tourists will make their way to.
Exactly. I love places like that. 😉 The sign was on a curvy hill that was I would equate to driving through hell. LOL
Wow you saw so many things here! And those waterfalls – amazing
I didn’t get pictures of the really good ones, my husband got tired of pulling over. 😉
Great pictures – I’m sure we’d love to head for Panama one day and get to know this part of the world a little better…
I hope you make it some day. It is a beautiful country. 😉
Melody, I can tell that was such a special day for you, I just love the smiles on all the kids faces!
Thanks Brianna. I love bringing them things!
Wow, such an interesting hidden treasure! Seeing all the animals would be so cool!
It was awesome. The sloth was epic!
Your trip sounds very interesting I have never heard of this places in Panama before. I would love to visit the indigenous people and see their way of life!
We have very interesting ones in Boquete, too. It is interesting to see how they react with us expats but the Panamanians and indigenous seem to have some strife. Thanks so much for reading. 😉
Really great images!
Thank you Dannielle!
I can only imagine what it must of been like to see a sloth in its usual pseudo environment. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks Arnie! It was so cool.
I can understand your emotions, it must have been such a great day! Lovely natural surroundings, nice people and great food, what else can one ask for?:)
Thanks Gabor. 😉 I am so blessed to see so many great things.
What an amazing day you’ve had. I’m hoping to explore Central America next year, and hopefully Panama will be on the itinerary.
I hope you make it there. 😉 Panama has certainly spruced up over the past couple of years.
Looks like a beautiful country. PS.. I am soooo jealous that you saw sloths!!
It was high on my list of things to see and happened so suddenly! 😉
We meant to make it out here on our last trip, but ran out of days. Looks like a really beautiful place 🙂
It was and I hope to visit again some time. 😉
This was a wonderful story. I forget the amount of emotion I experience when we travel to new places, both fancy and 3rd world. And I think that your approach of “visitor” vs “tourist” really keeps an open door between you guys and the people you meet.
Thank you Rob! 😉 See, I’m not all dining and Disney. LOL Appreciate the compliments and comments.
You have so many great photos here! I’m just dying to meet my spirit animal…the sloth!
Awesome! They are adorable and I hear someone in Panama has some baby ones on their property. I am hoping to see them in February when I visit.
Looks like a great trip! You made some pretty amazing connections here. The photo of the sloth on the wires cracked me up!
It was even funnier a huge crowd of Americans firing photos as fast as we could while he inched his way along the pole. lol 😉 Thanks, Kevin.
Wonderful post and a great trip you had. Nice and candid photos too.
Thank you so much!
What an authentic experience. Your pictures are just great in telling the story itself. I love the sloths they are amazing
Thanks so much, Mark! That was my goal that day, to see a sloth, and sure enough we did! 😉
This looks wonderful! I love interaction with the locals, especially when it’s such an enriching experience. Lovely pictures, too, they really express a lot of those great human emotions!
Thanks so much Liesbeth. It means a lot. 😉
Wow that is definielty the kind of expereince that stay with you all your life, seeign the kids and sharing with everyone is the best. The sloth is adorable lol. Really great pics!
Thanks so much Evelyne. 😉 They make my trip every time.