Tucked in the deep south, McDowell County, West Virginia, is a place where history runs as deep as the coal legacy and adventure is woven into the mountains themselves. This is Appalachian country at its most authentic—rich with stories, scenic beauty, outdoor thrills, and a powerful cultural legacy that deserves to be experienced, not rushed.
Whether you come for the trails, the history, or the heartfelt hospitality, McDowell County delivers a trip that stays with you long after the dust settles on your boots.
Ride the Hatfield-McCoy Trails
One of the biggest draws to McDowell County is access to the legendary Hatfield-McCoy Trail System, one of the largest off-highway vehicle trail networks in the country. Riders can explore miles of rugged terrain by ATV or side-by-side, winding through forested hills, hollows, and towns that have officially embraced trail tourism.
Several communities here are ATV-friendly, meaning you can ride directly through town—fueling up, grabbing a bite, and admiring colorful murals without ever loading back onto a trailer. It’s an immersive way to see the county and connect with its people.
Note: This trail system, arguably one of the best in the nation, is mentioned at greater length in our ‘100 Things to Do in West Virginia Before You Die‘ book, published by Reedy Press.
Stay, Eat, and Unwind at Ashland ATV Resort
A perfect home base for your adventure is Ashland Resort, with RV sites, cozy cabins, cottages, and tent sites, plus a lodge set amid 1600 acres of dreamy mountain scenery. It is the largest campground (Indian River Trail passes through it) in the Hatfield-McCoy Trail System, and you can rent ATVs here.
After a day on the trails, Ashland ATV Resort the ideal place to relax, swap stories, and enjoy the peace that comes with fresh Appalachian air; or even if you aren’t riding the trails. The cabin accommodations have everything you need, and can sleep from 2 to 6.
Grab souvenirs, snacks, beer, tobacco, and convenience items at the Ashland Company Store, or enjoy a tasty meal (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) at the Coal Camp Café, both 1/2 mile away. Color me impressed that meals are served on West Virginia-made Fiesta dishes.
Indian Ridge Bar and Grill also serves lunch on certain days and dinner.
Explore Welch: Murals, History, and a Classic Drive-In
Welch, the county seat, is small but full of character. As you explore—especially by ATV—you’ll notice vibrant murals that celebrate local history, coal heritage, and Appalachian pride.
Don’t miss a stop at Sterling Drive-In, a genuine old-school burger joint serving up classic comfort food and ice cream. The walls inside are packed with memorabilia, making it part diner, part museum—and a must-visit local favorite.
Discover more of the Mountain State with our 25+ blog posts pertaining to West Virginia, found here.
Step Inside the Art & History Museum
The Jack Caffrey Arts and Cultural Center (also a history museum) may be small, but it tells a mighty story. Here, you’ll learn about coal mining, daily life in the coal camps, and pivotal moments that shaped labor history in Appalachia. You’ll also see art by local artists, and you’ll have the opportunity to purchase some.
Learn About African American History & Achievements
McDowell County holds a special place in African American history. In Kimball, you’ll find the Kimball War Memorial, the only U.S. monument built to honor Black World War I soldiers. It stands as a powerful reminder of service, sacrifice, and stories that too often go untold.
Nearby historical markers throughout the county highlight African American communities, leaders, and contributions that played a vital role in shaping the coalfields.
Walk Through “Rocket Boys” Country
This exploration of the West Virginia coalfields becomes even more meaningful if you’ve read Rocket Boys by Homer Hickam or seen its adaptations, October Sky (film and Broadway). The story captures the spirit of this region—hope, ambition, and ingenuity rising from coal towns against all odds.
I had not read this book when I visited McDowell County, but as a West Virginia native, it touched my heart and has become one of my all-time faves. Knowing the story will enrich your visit.
Admire the Limestone Courthouse
While in Welch, take time to admire the striking McDowell County Courthouse, built of limestone and one of the region’s most impressive architectural landmarks. It’s a visual symbol of the county’s once-booming prosperity and remains a proud centerpiece of town.
Chase Trains & Explore Twin Branch Tunnel
For photographers and history lovers, McDowell County offers hidden gems like Twin Branch Tunnel, also known as Davy Tunnel, built in 1890 using primitive methods. If you’re lucky, you might catch a train rumbling through—an unforgettable sight and an excellent video opportunity.
Railroads were the lifeline of the coalfields, and remnants like this help bring that era vividly to life.
Fishing & Outdoor Time Nearby
While McDowell County itself is rugged and mountainous, nearby Mercer County offers great opportunities for fishing and additional outdoor recreation. It’s an easy add-on if you’re looking to round out your trip with some quiet time on the water.
Nearby Towns Worth Adding to Your Itinerary
McDowell County includes towns like War, Gary, Iaeger, Kimball, Keystone, Northfork, Big Sandy, and Anawalt, along with several smaller communities, each contributing to the county’s character.
Just beyond the county line, consider exploring:
- Bluefield, with its charming downtown, the historic Granada Theater, and nearby Pinnacle Rock State Park
- Pipestem Resort State Park, one of West Virginia’s finest
- Princeton, home to the Railroad Museum
- Brush Creek Holl’r Mountain Coaster, for an added adrenaline rush
- A meal at Dolly’s Diner, a local favorite worth the stop
Look for History Along the Way
As you travel, keep an eye out for National Coal Heritage Trail markers and the Merci Boxcar, which help tell the broader story of coal, community, and global connections that shaped southern West Virginia.
Why McDowell County Belongs on Your Travel Radar
McDowell County isn’t polished—and that’s exactly the point. It offers real stories, real people, and real adventure. Expect Appalachian culture, warm hospitality, breathtaking mountain views, and a deeper appreciation for a region that has given so much to the nation.
If you’re looking for a destination that blends outdoor excitement with meaningful history, McDowell County, West Virginia, just might surprise you—in the very best way.
